Sunday, June 22, 2008

footprints on my heart

[dedicated to the future crazy auntie of my nieces and nephews, nicky tavares]


time flies. it's been nearly three years since i left eritrea. and now i 'm back in another corner of africa.

i'm spending my summer in cape town's winter, working as a research assistant and interning for the ngo positive muslims, which provides support to cape town's HIV-positive muslims.

it has rained every day since i've been here, and i've already wasted a few precious days lying underneath the covers, too depressed by the weather and separation from loved ones to bother coming out. i've softened a bit in my late-twenties; i'm not as defiantly independent as i used to be. i spent the last year in boston with nicky, and the past few months have been a sort of family utopia. it was the first time in over two years that my parents, sister, and myself were together in the same city. and my sister has two children now; they were there too. which brings me to another pang of separation - i think for the first time in my life i know how it feels to love a child. you wonder what they will be like when you finally see them again. if they will even remember you.

my first impressions of cape town: along with the winter-weather, the segregation and blaring racial inequality depressed me. table mountain was gorgeous, seductively covered by clouds, and followed me around wherever i went.

friday night muhammad took david, another research assistant, and i out to long street, where we hopped from bar to club to club to bar. at one bar a band covered ridiculous hair-metal tunes from the 80s, along with some other choice cuts, and the crowd was totally into it. all the various racial categories defined and managed during the apartheid era - blacks, coloreds, indians, and whites - screamed along, "POUR. SOME. SUGAR. ON MEE!" for a moment there on long street, i felt the cosmopolitanism and unique mixing of cultures that residents of cape town are so proud of. hell, i was almost enamored and wrapped up in it myself. i almost even wanted to sing along. and for a moment, seeing pockets like that, it made me a little less depressed about the segregation and racial inequality that still frame the city.

i spend a lot of my time with aunties. fearless and inspiring aunties who wear headscarves and challenge the stigmatization of persons living with HIV/AIDS. the director of positive muslims is one such fearless headscarf-wearing auntie. she lives with HIV and walks around the office beautifully singing the shahada (muslim testament of faith). at the positive muslims workshop today she was speaking, imparting us with some of her wisdom, and she said something that really touched my softie late-twenties heart, "everyone we meet in our lives leaves footprints on our hearts." the workshop was really touching as well. i'm usually very cynical about workshops, having once infamously denied being south asian after participating in a workshop for progressive south asian youth. but this one was different. perhaps i felt that the injustices that the workshop's participants have faced were more palpable, more real, than the issues we've dealt with at the privileged progressive workshops in which i've participated in the states.

the drive back to the city from simon's town was beautiful and hilarious. the director was telling us (her assistant and i) how at a conference she went to in amsterdam when she was 38 she mentioned that she had never been to a club. the other participants at the conference were stunned, asking how old she was in disbelief. they vowed to take her to a club in amsterdam even though she expressed no interest. as part of her "club-education," they took her to the red light district. the director described how in one area of the red light district they had all the "voluptuous women," and how they had different areas for, you know, "all the different types of beauty," and how they had "pornos" and how you could "participate in the pornos" or just watch them, live shows, this and that, and how, as she still wore her headscarf, they could hear "youngsters" around them wondering out loud, "what's SHE doing here?!"

at this point, her 50+ old assistant chimed in: "i don't get what the obsession is. i would rather go out to the beach and watch the whales, while i'm still walking. i know it sounds corny."

director: "as long as it's not horny!" [laughing at the corny joke, all of us].

assistant: "well no, it can be horny, as long as you're in a relationship! which is unfortunate for me...."

and that was my day with fearless, inspiring, headscarf-wearing aunties making jokes about sex and pornos and being horny.

they left some footprints on my heart.

Thursday, May 17, 2007

303 hours to go

~303 hours to go

2:00am may 9 - drift off to sleep, expecting to wake up in 2 hours to catch my 6 o'clock train to delhi.

5:36am may 9 - i am awoken by the combination of unexpected bright light shining through my window and the click-clack of stones ricocheting off it as the domestic worker downstairs, ikram, tries to save my day, while i stubbornly drool it away.

6:02am may 9 - after a mad dash of running yelling and rickshawing, i make it on board my train drenched in sweat but with my thud thud thudding heart slowing to a sweet relief.

6:10am may 9 - train leaves station and i see just how close i like to cut things.

~284 hours to go

11:00pm may 9 - after running some errands in the afternoon, i meet a friend from jawaharlal nehru university at a trendy south delhi spot, tabula ras, which is sort of a highlight of my day of delhi disgust, including lodging (for cheapness) in the tourist trap that is pahar ganj, and then of course absorbing the slippery slick lifestyle, gooey gelled hair, make-up-crusty faces, and gym-trimmed or gym-buffed bodies of rich delhiite snobs. i notice that my friend is looking quite slick these days as well, and he concedes, delhi did it to me. as we leave tabula ras, a customer apparently slaps a waiter, or so we hear. the suspect is taken into a room, held and beaten by 5-10 guys while security officers watch; the beating (which we could hear) sounds quite brutal to me, but doesn't phase my friend or any of the other delhiites standing around having a good time. lesson learned: this place may make you slick (if you belong to the right class), but it also makes you hard.

~267 hours to go

4:00pm may 10 - in my dirty american tourist clothes and sweating my dirty american tourist sweat, i arrive at the pakistani embassy. to one side there are not-so-slick (wouldn't see them at tabula ras) indian muslims clamoring for visas, i walk around to the other side and there are well-dressed indians trying to get into the embassy through other, slicker channels. i'm here grudgingly, on instructions from my father to visit his friend who is the pakistani ambassador to india, who i met once many many years ago. looking at my dirty american tourist sweat-drenched face, the secretary at the window obliges my request to send a message to the ambassador with a "oh, you fool" type of smile. i wait, and as i wait someone approaches me to say,

"if you have connections 'on the inside,' then i have an idea/plan that i need some help with."

me, a bit dumbfounded, "uhhh. sorry, i can't help you."

a few minutes later i am summoned to "his excellency's" office, and suddenly the snide-smile secretary and those around him are all smiles, no snide, as they open the gates to "the inside."

his excellency, or as i called him, "uncle shahid," was quite the charmer and not at all intimidating or scruffy. while i was there he called my dad in the states and they bantered in a loutish rough-house punjabi, cracking jokes and laughing. then he sobered up all at once and pronounced, "ok, i have to get serious or your son is going to think the ambassador is a joker."

i walked out of the embasssy feeling pretty slick. but not so hard.

~252 hours to go

may 11 - i travel to amritsar and see the sublimely lit golden temple at night. i am mesmerized.

may 12 - still mesmerized by the sunlit golden temple. also visit jallianwala bagh, site of the 1919 british massacre of at least 379 (some estimates as high as 2000) unarmed and peacefully demonstrating indians.

~195 hours to go

3:50pm may 13 - crossing the india-pakistan border at wagah on foot is not quite the climactic film scene that i was picturing in my mind. mostly because i am running, panting, and stopping to take breaths as i try to cross before the 4pm border closing. i make it just in time. the last indian soldier sends me off by praising my Hindi, and 10 feet later, the first pakistani soldier greets me by praising my Urdu, meanwhile, there has been no change in my language. the story is old, but it goes on.

once on the pakistani side of the border, i traveled in style - hitch-hiking my way to lahore, where my grandmother was awaiting me, in the AC sedan of a Punjab University lecturer. and that's where i am now. sharing a few precious moments with bari ami (literally: big mama) before i return to lucknow, only to leave it for good this time.

i got 120 hours to go.

Friday, August 18, 2006

arab-face

went to a bar called the ginger man the other night. for dallas, it's a relatively cool place to hang out. relaxed ambience, comfy couches, wide selection of international alcoholic beverages, etc. what's not so cool is this massive french orientalist poster proudly displayed along the staircase:

wearing a sheepish grin, the caricaturized arab (algerian, i assume) submissively serves a bottle of liquor to his charmed snake (the french?). the title of "le fakyr" is a francisized version of the arabic word meaning poor person, or beggar, which has a significant mystic/religious connotation as well.

googling "le fakyr," i found racism sold at a number of online vintage poster stores, fully accompanied with whitewashed sales descriptions such as "this circa 1920 poster created by Mich, the master of whimsical posters, is linen backed, measures 45" x 62" and is in excellent condition."

after bewildering the white clientele with my fascination with with the poster, i sat down with nicky and two of her friends from high school. one of them was training to be a rescue swimmer, he told us, and this caught my attention almost as much as the poster.

in my partially drunken stupor, it brought to the surface that conflict that has been lying latent within me, furrowing its eyebrows in the background of my conscience. that conflict between doing goody-two-shoes volunteerism type work, and working towards radical change. let me clarify, by goody-two-shoes volunteerism type work i mean feeding people fish rather than teaching them how to capture the shark. i mean mother teresa vs. malcolm x. i mean reforming, and ultimately reinforcing an oppressive system rather than challenging that system. in short, and for dramatic measure, we can call this the conflict between alleviating poverty and destroying capitalism.

my latent conflict has never been much of a conflict because i've always been one for destroying capitalism rather than alleviating poverty, as enumerated above. however, lately, as i am finding it hard to make inroads towards destroying capitalism, i am wondering if i should just settle for alleviating poverty instead. after all, i think it is quite hard to draw a paycheck for "destroying capitalism," but the last time i checked, there were quite a few NGOs "alleviating poverty."

and as i listened to nicky's friend, we'll call him AP, talk about becoming a rescue swimmer, i started to become enamored with the job, the same way i get about the idea of running a marathon (just the idea), in my partially drunken stupor. i'd have to lose the 35 pounds i've packed on in the last year, i thought. as well as gain another 100 of pure muscle. could i do it? jumping into oceans and seas to save drowning people, rather than "changing the system." seeing as how i'm not making much progress "changing the system," why not? but still...i was having trouble coming to a final decision in my partially drunken stupor...

bruce springsteen started singing to me through the speakers,

you can't start a fire, you can't start a fire without a spark
this gun's for hire, even if we're just dancing in the dark

and life seemed to be full of possibility again, opportunity seemed rife, perhaps i had come to a crossroads.

for a moment, i tried to ignore springsteen and make out some more of AP's words, as he seemed to still be talking to me. and then it occurred to me to ask a rather pertinent question. "wait," i interjected. pause. "is this, like, part of the military or something?"

"i'm in the navy," AP answered.

"oh," i replied, as i thought, fuck that. decision made. i'll stick with "working towards radical change," even if i'm just dancing in the dark.

Tuesday, January 31, 2006

if you won't publish it in your paper, i'll publish it in my blog

another unpublished letter to the editor...i guess i should've known better with this one, but i'm a slow learner...

i think, having been out of the country for so long, i have forgotten what is and what is not permissable to say here....unfortunately, i am being reminded...

***
jan. 19

It strikes me as strange and fittingly Orwellian that the lives of civilians, the protection of which is, ostensibly, the primary objective of the “War on Terror,” are also the most dispensable component of that war. Nowhere is this more clear than in the recent US airstrike in Pakistan. While the submissive and spineless US media continue to toot their own government’s horn, pronouncing that 3 al-Qaeda operatives were killed in the attack, the 18 nameless and faceless civilians, women and children amongst them, who were also killed in the attack are relegated to the periphery, business as usual. The Pakistani protests of the foreign attack within their ostensibly sovereign nation’s borders are treated as dubious, painted as extremist, and somehow equated with support for al-Qaeda. Imagine if Britain had launched an airstrike in Boston during the IRA’s heyday, targeting IRA funders and supporters, as well as killing a dozen or so civilians. Would Americans protesting the loss of innocent lives in a foreign attack on their own soil be branded as IRA supporters? No, they would not, and the hypothetical British attack never occurred for the same reason the “War on Terror,” as it is currently administered, will never succeed: we have respect for our own lives, while we treat those of the Third World with contempt.

Saturday, November 05, 2005

2D

inured (in yoor'd; i noor'd) adj. accustomed to accepting something undesirable

12:04am

inured

12:05am

inured

12:06am

stillinured

inured. in u red. i am inured. but i am reminded that in u red. in me there is blood. flowing through my veins. in action. it is not resigned. it is moving. fighting. keeping me alive. something that my will is no longer doing. that is only inured. accustomed to something undesireable.

i went to the mall today with my mom. last place i was expecting to run into anyone i knew. at the mall in dallas, tx. ran into someone i knew in high school. and in college. she was like, this is the last place i was expecting to see you! i was like, yeah, i'm with my mom. she said, me too! yeah, sure. i know, i used to be radical, but now i go to the mall on saturday afternoons.

i was hanging by a thread. i was standing on the very last of a precarious support. the final straw was pulled beneath my feet and now i am collapsed. i have to blow myself up with air once again. air that will fill my body and soul like it once used to be filled. air from another source will pervade my being and inhabit my soul and i will be different. i'm already changed. but i'm still waiting for new air to inflate me from my collapse. right now, i'm inured to my flatness. inured to my hollowness. inured to being without you. or so i tell myself.

i discovered this word as i was half-assingly studying for the GRE. learning words that no one uses. so as to cement the distance between academy and reality. a distance that i'm now preparing myself to leap. why, i don't know. i'm just looking for direction. searching for meaning. biding my time. b/c you're no longer mine.

so i came across this word and decided it was the perfect epithet for the state that i've been in for the last 2 years and running. it's all well and fine when you're travelling, being inured. when you're away from "home" (where is that again?). when you're "roughing" it (roughing what? pervert). sure, i'll eat what i can get, drink what i can get, travel any way i can, be it with goats in the back of a lorry or in a luxurious landcruiser.

but what about when you're back "home" and still inured? does it just mean that i've lost all the fight that was once in me? have i lost my young blood? was i once radical and now mediocre? was i once imaginative and now boring? or was it just that i was once young and now old. once in fantasy and now in reality?

i used to think, we could leave, we could leave and spark and combust into something beautiful and otherworldly. i used to think not that we could, but indeed we must one day do this. sure as the night giving way to day, we would combust and spark into our beautiful destinies.

now i think that this is all life will ever be. no more. maybe sometimes less. and that if we must combust and spark into beautiful destinies, that could happen only in death. and even then, it's not a sure bet.

the breath of your love once filled me up and made me 3-D. now it's gone and i've deflated. i've lost a dimension.

Monday, October 24, 2005

me and homeland security

guess what kind of reception the "land of the free" gives you upon returning home after two years of "service" in one of the "poorest countries in the world"?

how about one of disbelief, suspicion, prejudice and humiliation? you guessed it.

after holding me up and cross-examining me and inspecting my luggage and conscience for five hours, the folks at the department of homeland security finally decided that they "had to let me go." this is an account of the five hours that preceded their gracious decision, and of why i think this country has gone

completely fucking crazy.

it started slowly. what seemed like normal customs procedures. but from the very beginning, the lady's questions had an incredulous tone, and everything that i said was met with an incredulous response. and when it was clear that things weren't going well and that this was going to take a while, i asked if i could make a phone call. which was met with the customary, suspiciously-toned repeat of whatever it was that i just happened to say, "you want to make a PHONE CALL?"

Yes, I'd like to call my parents to let them know that I'm going to miss my flight so that they won't worry about me.

she said that she would ask someone. but instead, the next thing i knew she, along with a big man with gloves on, were escorting me to another room meant for "authorized personnel" only. seeing the guy with the gloves, i was thinking they were going to strip me and probe my anus. but that situation never materialized.

i was taken to a room where i sat alone with about 5-7 officers, some going in and out of the room. there were 2 officers interrogating me, and a 3rd guy who thought he was on the set of "lethal weapon" occasionally quipping idiotic statements which i'm sure he thought were wisecracks.

my five intimate hours with these folks left me sure of a few things:

1) they want to control your mind. by "they" i mean the government and the agencies that are supposed to "protect our borders." namely the department of homeland security. they don't want you to think anything they don't want you to think.

2) they made it crystal clear to me that they were after me because i was muslim and asked detailed questions about what my own personal faith was and what it was that i believed.

3) they have no idea about what they talk about.

4) they, the people that are supposed to be "protecting our borders," are complete idiots.

my bags were thoroughly checked. disembowelled along with my conscience. personal letters and papers, my diary, my books, were all skimmed and read.

and questions were asked. always with a skeptical tone, and my responses were met with the same tone.

upon finding tanya reinhart's book "Israel/Palestine: How to End the War of 1948," the customs lady asked me, "Why are you reading THIS?"

I like to know what's going on in the world. Don't you?

apparently not.

but the worst questions were the ones pertaining to religion.
Officer#2: "Why did you choose Islam?"

I didn't choose it, I was born into it.

Officer#2: "Well then, why did you CHOOSE to follow Islam [after having been born into it.]?"

Well, it's part of my heritage.

at one point they read a passage in my diary where i wondered if there was any such thing as a soul. i wasn't sure. thereafter followed detailed and antagonistic questions asking to explain my personal faith.

Officer#2: "What do you MEAN you don't know what you BELIEVE in?," almost yelled at me.

well, i'm just not sure if there's a soul or not. you can't really prove that.

Officer#2: repeated, "What do you MEAN you don't know what you BELIEVE in?"

they weren't happy with my answer. they are uncomfortable with nuance. with probing. with any inquistive minds who care to know what's going on in the world or who ask questions or think things that don't fit inside their ready-made response boxes. they want black and white answers for their black and white worldview. they want to know, are you with us or are you against us? they want to know, you a good muslim or a bad muslim? well, i'm muslim, and i think you think that's bad.

it was hard to explain my personal faith to the detailed extent they were asking. for one you feel under attack. the other, faith is not so simple. especially when a bunch of hostile officers are looking for something to grab and haul you in on.

i explained i wasn't a very orthodox or strict or conventional muslim. which was hard to explain to people who think they know about islam but actually have an astonishingly shallow view of it. they wanted to know in what way i was not "orthodox." in the end i had to say i wasn't orthodox because i didn't believe that there was one true faith in the world, that i thought each faith contained truth and falseness, and that one should strive for the truth. you'd think that was as ecumenical an answer as you could give. but still they weren't happy. it didn't fit into their box. black/white. with/against. goodmuslim/badmuslim.

they also wanted to know the name of the mosque i went to in agordat, eritrea. i said, in all honesty, i didn't know the name. which suddenly awakened the faux muslim scholar sleeping in the officer to my left. "There's no such THING as a mosque with no name," accusingly he informed me.

i said i thought official names were a very american thing, not necessarily a very universal or very eritrean thing. and that in any case, i didn't know the name of the straw-roofed building that was the mosque, i didn't think most of the residents of the town knew the name, that i didn't even know the name of the mosque i attended in richardson, and that even if i knew the name he probably wouldn't be able to pronounce it.

the name of the mosque was one issue they didn't let go. till the end they thought i was hiding it from them, and they kept asking me.

the comic-relief-reject from the set of "lethal weapon" would occasionally jump in. "ERITREA! WHY would you go THERE?! It's one of the POOREST COUNTRIES IN THE WORLD!"

That's why I went there.

i had all kinds of forms, certificates, letters of reference to show that i had a legit teaching job in eritrea. but still, they wondered, "you're sure all you were doing in eritrea was teaching?"

comic-relief man's grand-prize question was asked as he was looking at photos of my students in eritrea: "Man, what were you doing in NWFP (North West Frontier Province, Pakistan)?!"

bewildered, i responded, "That's Eritrea. The people in those photos are Black. They are not Black in NWFP."

ok, so not NWFP, then they asked where i had been in pakistan besides karachi. i mentioned lahore and islamabad.

Officer#1: "Lahore, that's real RADICAL place."

I looked at him as if he were crazy.

Officer#1: "Ok I guess you don't think it's radical?"

I explained that no, I did not think that Lahore was a radical place. I didn't see it as being very different from Karachi. I explained that it's a city of over 5 million people and that you can't reduce an entire city of 5 million people into a "radical place." There are people of all walks of life and from all sorts of educational backgrounds living in Lahore. To call it a radical place would be like calling the entire city of Houston a radical place.

Officer#1: "Ok then, which places in Pakistan do you consider radical?"

I didn't think you could call any of the big cities radical. They are cities of millions of people coming from different places and from different backgrounds. You can't call an entire city of millions a radical place.

after the personal questions came probably the scariest part of the night. when they searched through their database and asked me about people i knew. they asked about my parents, my grandmother, relatives, distant relatives, friends, friends of friends. they knew all of these people. had their names, knew their whereabouts, in some cases more so than i did. i felt like i was being monitored and was walking a tight-rope. like if i happened to jay-walk in a few days i would be arrested.

after five hours of questioning and luggage and brain inspection, they told me they had to let me go.

their stupidity, like when they clung to the issue of whether i believed in a soul and kept asking me, "what do you MEAN you don't know what you BELIEVE in?," might've been strategy, i concede that. maybe they were just trying to find something, anything, to grab onto, and were trying to make me "crack" somehow. but, maybe they're just stupid. i mean, if i were a terrorist, a fanatic, would i be pondering things like whether there is a soul, and questioning my faith? probably not. i would know exactly what i believe and be ready to die for it. it'd be black and white. but that's what i think is the thing. they're just as black and white as any terrorist. and they wanted my answers to match their white answers. no room in the middle, no room for inquiring minds. tell us what you believe, this or that, none of this wishy-washy thinking shit.

and then of course their stupidity was shown in the standard way these days. the pundit who knows islam but doesn't know the world, so hence knows nothing. there's no room for the real, for the world, for humanity, in their and in many people's understanding of islam. islam is not treated as a real culture by any of these pundits-without-a-brain. it's understood as a pathology. it can be understood completely by reading books in isolation, and any of the marks of a real culture--dynamism, variance, deviations, the way real people live everywhere, are not considered, are not accepted. ditto that for many western attitudes towards/understandings of any third world culture or society. it's taken that you can completely understand these places and people by a simple set of rules to be learned and mastered. they are like puppets in a show we can read the script of. asked about our own societies, the first thing we say is "it depends," fully recognizing the complexities of any society. when asking about another society, we want absolutes. we want the rules, because, implicitly, we are human, they are puppets. i've gone way off topic now, but to try to connect it, i'm thinking my interrogators must've thought, what the hell kind of muslim doesn't know if he believes in a soul? i didn't read about this in "The Arabs." you a goodmuslim or a badmuslim? you moderate or radical? we got no box for "muslim who doesn't know about souls."


the ordeal at the airport left me feeling like my family and i are being watched, along with many others, big brother style. maybe i'm being slightly paranoid, but it's still the way i felt, especially after they started scrolling through their database. more so than ever, it made me feel scared about living in america. i've experienced prejudice many times growing up here, but i've never felt more viscerally, it's never been shown to me so personally before, that being muslim is a crime. and i'm just the tip of the iceberg.